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Pick up a route map from the visitor center for other trails. Whistler Alpine Guides Bureau ; www. Rafting Tumbling waterfalls, dense forest and a menagerie of local wildlife are some of the visuals you might catch as you lurch along the Elaho or Squamish rivers on an adrenalin-rushing half- or full-day rafting trip. Whistler River Adventures , ; www. Kokanee Crankworx www. Cornucopia www. Whistler Film Festival www. The visitor center has a handy accommodation reservation service , ; www.
Budget HI-Whistler Hostel ; whistler hihostels. Dorms are predictably institutional, but private rooms are also available. Book ahead year-round. The on-site restaurant serves great breakfasts have the salmon eggs Benedict.
Fireside Lodge ; www. Midrange Blackcomb Lodge , ; www. It offers lofts and studios with full kitchens, and a selection of cheaper but very comfortable standard rooms. Alpine Lodge ; www. Crystal Lodge , ; www. Both share excellent proximity to village restaurants and are less than m from the main ski lift. Or you can just hop in the hot tub and dream about the large buffet breakfast coming your way in the morning.
Edgewater Lodge , ; www. Pinnacle Hotel , ; www. Top end Adara Hotel , ; www. The front desk loans iPods. The region hits the international spotlight when it joins Vancouver to host the Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games in February and March Go to www.
Choose a room overlooking the slopes and you can watch from your balcony as the skiers slide home. Fairmont Chateau Whistler , ; www.
The hallways, lobbies and rooms are adorned in rich hues and tastefully furnished with classic west coast elegance. Also recommended: Sundial Boutique Hotel , ; www. Suites have full kitchens, heated bathroom floors and rooftop hot-tub access. Legends , ; www. Fight your way to the counter and buy as many cookies and muffins as you can eat: smiling while stuffing your face has never been easier.
Try a glass of hot sake on a cold winter day. The loungey, sometimes raucous, bar will keep you occupied here until past midnight when you can stagger back to wherever your hotel might be. Save room for dessert: the cheese menu is small but perfectly formed and the Okanagan apple cheesecake will have you licking the glaze off your plate.
You can treat your hangover to a late breakfast the next day by coming in for a good-value fry-up. From its wrought-iron chandeliers to its stone hearth and giant picture windows, you can tell anyone who will listen here all about your daring escapades on the slopes.
They might even believe you. The food, including pasta, pizza and great fish and chips, is superior to standard bar fare. Thursday is the best night of the week, attracting locals with indie and funk tunes, but be prepared to line up for weekend entry when everyone within a 25km radius seems to be trying to get in. MY Place ; www. Motor coach services from Perimeter Tours , ; www. Snowbus , ; www. Alternatively, you can grab a taxi from Resort Cabs ; www.
Check the website of the Sunshine Coast Tourism Partnership www. The Sunshine Coast Transit System ; www. Malaspina Coach Lines ; ; www. This service is also handy for traveling up and down the highway between the Sunshine Coast communities. West of town, Roberts Creek Provincial Park ; www. Exactly what a great hostel should be, Up the Creek Backpackers , ; www.
Its large upstairs suite, complete with kitchenette, is popular with families but the lovely Renaissance Room is perfect for some romantic canoodling. Return to beginning of chapter SECHELT pop A useful base for active travelers, with plenty of hiking, biking, kayaking and diving opportunities in the area, Sechelt is the second-largest town on the Sunshine Coast.
For information, drop by the Visitor Centre , ; www. About as far from camping as you can get, each luxurious canvas-walled cabin has a heated rock floor, Jacuzzi tub and a private deck overlooking the bay.
Your first stop should be Pemberton Museum ; Prospect St; admission by donation; 10am-5pm Jun-Sep where you can wander around a village of rescued pioneer shacks and imagine the Gold Rush sweeping through. Next, don your Stetson and saddle up with Adventures on Horseback ; www. An even better way to see the area is from the air. Head to the Pemberton Soaring Centre , ; www. Tell the pilot you like rollercoasters and see what happens next. Finally, roll back to your cozy bed at the Whistler-style Pemberton Valley Lodge , ; www.
Hop aboard a steel-hulled water taxi operated by High Tide Tours ; www. West of downtown, Willingdon Beach City Park is an ideal spot for a waterfront picnic. Or you can hit the water with a kayak from Powell River Sea Kayak , ; www. For a quirky sleepover, the Old Courthouse Inn , ; www.
In keeping with the historic theme, the rooms are nicely decorated with antique furnishings. Nearby, the old Rodmay Heritage Hotel ; www. For an introduction to the island, contact Tourism Vancouver Island , ; www. This was a surprise to anyone who actually came from Britain, since Victoria promulgated a dreamy version of England that never really was: every garden complete with the occasional palm tree was immaculate; every flag pole was adorned with a Union Jack; and every afternoon was spent quaffing tea from bone-china cups.
Thankfully this tired theme-park version of Ye Olde England has been gradually superseded in recent years. Fuelled by an increasingly younger demographic, a quiet revolution has seen lame tourist pubs, eateries and stores transformed into the kind of bright-painted bohemian shops, wood-floored coffee bars and surprisingly innovative restaurants that would make any city proud.
Visitor Centre Map; ; www. Parliament Buildings Map; ; www. The BC legislature welcomes history-hugging visitors. Consider stopping for lunch Click here. This tiny strip of businesses is fronted by an incongruously large Chinatown gate. Consider a guided tour to learn all about days of opium dens and anti-Chinese sentiment. Check the online calendar of events if you want to rub shoulders with the locals at lectures, presentations and even singles nights aimed at lonely arts fans.
The multiturreted Craigdarroch Castle Map; ; www. The elegant, wood-lined stone mansion is dripping with period architecture and antique-packed rooms. Enter the park via Douglas St. Emily Carr House Map; ; www. When you get to Victoria Bug Zoo Map; ; www. This clutch of scrubbed colonial strongholds is now home to the Maritime Museum of British Columbia Map; ; www. Some operators: Orca Spirit Adventures Map; , ; www.
Some operators: Ocean River Sports Map; , ; www. Sports Rent Map; ; www. Cycle Treks Map; , ; www. Gray Line West Map; , ; www. Hidden Dragon Tours Map; , ; www. Victoria SkaFest www. Victoria Jazzfest International www. Moss Street Paint-In In mid-July artists demonstrate their skills at this popular one-day community event. Symphony Splash www. Victoria Fringe Theatre Festival www. Victoria Cycling Festival www. A great place to meet fellow travelers.
Daily guided excursions and tours include city, bike and history treks. HI Victoria Hostel Map; , ; victoria hihostels. Free weekly city tours are offered.
Geometric bedspreads and pastel paintwork color most interiors but the courtyard suites are much larger and suitable for small groups. Ocean Island Suites Map; , ; www. James Bay Inn Map; , ; www. There are some kitchenettes but the downstairs neighborhood bar also serves good pub grub.
Add extra time for the painfully slow elevator to arrive. Queen Victoria Map; , ; www. The rooms here have abandoned the floral bedspreads in favor of a smart business hotel feel. All have new bathrooms and fridges, some have kitchenettes and many overlook Beacon Hill Park from their little balconies. Shamrock Suites Map; , ; www. Call ahead for year-round room discounts. Rosewood Victoria Inn Map; , ; www. Bring your laptop to the library-like lounge for wireless access or hit the selection of board games.
The Heritage House is a restored family home with antiques, fireplaces and private patios. The larger Garden Suites have a contemporary feel and a smattering of Asian design flourishes. Gourmet continental breakfast is included. Swans Suite Hotel Map; , ; www. Most of the rooms are spacious loft suites where you climb upstairs to bed in a gabled nook, and each is decorated with a comfy combination of wood beams, rustic chic furniture and deep leather sofas.
Oswego Hotel Map; , ; www. Cleverly, the smaller studio rooms have space-saving high-end Murphy beds. Fairmont Empress Hotel Map; , ; www. Check out the handmade candies on display near the entrance and pick up some marzipan teeth for the road. Hulking sandwiches of the melt-in-your-mouth pulled pork variety beef brisket and smoked chicken variations are also offered dominate the simple menu and you can wash that down with a pail of homemade ice tea.
Expect lunchtime queues better to arrive early or late and consider perking up your order with a side of succulent cornbread or a fried-banana-and-peanut-butter sandwich dessert. Signature sarnies feature roast beef or pastrami but the bulging vegetarian sandwich is also popular.
Soups, wraps and sandwiches dominate the menu and there are plenty of vegetarian-friendly options. Heaping Belgian waffles are served with homemade cream cheese, and those who come for dinner can choose from a medley of international comfort foods, from calamari to pierogies.
Even meat-eaters have been known to swoon here, as they tuck into surprisingly tasty spring rolls, dim sum and potstickers. Combo meals are the best option, since they offer an array of different flavors. Carnivores will be just as happy here, though, with hearty savory dishes like shitake-tofu potstickers and an array of dense fruit smoothies.
Weekend brunch is popular and heavily patronized by hung-over students moaning quietly from the corners. The excellent beer selection includes Phillips and Lighthouse craft brews. Try the salmon-and-cream-cheese bagel melt at ReBar above. Save room for dessert: a frightening array of giant cheesecakes.
With a great wine menu, this spot invites adventurous foodies. Locally sourced produce is de rigueur, so the menu constantly changes to reflect seasonal highlights like figs, salmonberries and heirloom tomatoes. We recommend the lamb shank, served with mustard-creamed root vegetables and braised chard. Unassuming from the outside, the ever-changing dishes might range from a hearty squash soup with butter-fried sage to a mouth-melting sablefish, served with rapini and poached eggs.
Savvy diners drop by on Saturdays, when a creative five-course tasting menu hits the blackboard. Extensive first-hand research was undertaken for these reviews. Summer drinkers often enjoy the lighter Honey Blonde Ale, while those with darker palates should make for the Nut Brown. Save room for dinner: the menu of seasonal, locally-sourced dishes is superior to most pubs and includes some excellent seafood. Irish Times Map; ; Government St; 11am-1am Colonizing a former downtown bank building, this lively Celtic bar is a cut above standard Irish pubs.
The interior is a pleasing fusion of high ceilings and dark wood finishes and the draft selection is a buffet of classics from Ireland, France and Belgium. Friday is also popular and there are also regular live acts. The Friday and Saturday night dance parties here are the main attraction. The latter is also home of the Victoria Symphony ; www. Shopping While Government St is a magnet for souvenir shoppers, those looking for more worthwhile purchases should head to the Johnson St stretch between Store and Government.
Tops and skirts with insect prints are hot items, but there are also lots of cute handbags, socks and brooches to tempt your credit card. You can pick up all manner of tea paraphernalia here or sidle up to the tasting bar to quaff some adventurous brews. A minitheatre walks you through the process, a tasting bar serves those who like to quaff before buying and an impressive selection of vintages is offered for sale.
Flavors range from peppermint to chocolate nut. Government St Public Market ; Government St; Sun May-Sep An eclectic mix of vendors and performers transform this stretch at the block of Government St into a bustling pedestrianized street market on summer Sundays. Air Canada Jazz , ; www. Both airlines offer connections across Canada. Harbour Air Seaplanes , ; www. Similar West Coast Air , ; www.
Regular services also arrive from the Southern Gulf Islands. Victoria Clipper , ; www. Black Ball Transport ; www. Pick up a copy of the Peninsula Times for local stories and happenings or drop by the Saanich Peninsula Visitor Centre ; Patricia Bay Hwy; ampm Jun-Sep near Sidney for tips and insights on the area. Drop by the Visitor Centre ; www. The Marine Ecology Centre ; www.
A floating barge in the marina on our visit, it was scheduled to move to swanky new premises in the Sidney Pier Hotel. You can check out the sea critters for yourself at Sidney Spit. Accessed via a short ferry ride ; www. Dominating the waterfront, the new Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa , ; www. Victoria Regional Transit ; www. More than a century later, the cement operation is dust but the huge, elaborately manicured Butchart Gardens , ; www.
Summer is crowded with the usual tour bus hordes but daily afternoon and evening music performances and Saturday-night fireworks July and August make it all worthwhile. Yuletide-loving December visitors are treated to thousands of fairy lights draped among the wintering plants. Perched atop Observatory Hill, this government facility houses the Plaskett Telescope in use since along with several hands-on exhibits and a miniplanetarium for the astronomically inclined.
Starry-eyed visitors can crash the Star Party on Friday or Saturday evenings May to October , when the astronomers chill out, show off their equipment and tackle thorny themes from asteroids to zero gravity.
Hungry bald eagles are attracted to the fish and birdwatchers come ready with their cameras. Drop by the Sooke Region Visitor Centre , ; www.
This route goes a step further by getting cyclists off the highways and into some usually unseen backcountry. Getting on and off the trails is easy since bus lines along both routes are bike-rack equipped. You can download free maps and guides for both these routes from the Capital Regional District ; www. With surf crashing against the bluffs and a dense canopy of Douglas fir trees, it offers short strolls to the beach as well as a tough 10km coastal trail.
Sooke is also the end of the line for the popular Galloping Goose cycling trail see boxed text. Rent a bike from Sooke Cycle ; www.
Paintings, sculptures and carved wood line its interiors. Be aware that some sections are often muddy and difficult to hike and bear sightings are not uncommon. The most popular is the family-friendly China Beach Campground , ; www. Booking is also required on the West Coast Trail Express , ; www.
An ideal place to wind down after a long hike, its facilities include barbecues and hot tubs. Hikers are often found lolling around outside on the picnic tables here. Contact Tourism Cowichan , ; www. Visit the Visitor Centre , ; www. Must-scoffs here include giant vegetable pakoras and the kind of cinnamon-infused rice that addictions are made of.
The nearby South Shore Motel , ; www. After fuelling up, duck into the Maritime Centre ; www. Continue to the Caycus River Bridge and, just south of the bridge, turn right and follow Rosander Main for 29km to the park. Instead of submitting to a slow death, town officials commissioned a giant wall mural depicting local history. People took notice, 34 more murals and 13 sculptures were ordered, and a new tourism industry was born. Check the Visitor Centre ; www. Favorite stops include Cherry Point Vineyards ; www.
For more information on the wineries of this area and across Vancouver Island, check www. In the evening, the surprisingly large Chemainus Theatre , ; www. Rooms are slick and comfortable and many include kitchens. Its old Edwardian banks and trading houses are now occupied by artsy shops and coffee bars. Drop by the Visitor Centre , ; www. Downhill from the town hub, Transfer Beach Park attracts swimmers and picnickers and has summertime live music in its large amphitheater.
You can also hit the water here with the help of Sealegs Kayaking Adventures , ; www. With its own ferry service from the mainland, the city is a handy hub for exploring up-island. Nicol St leads south to Hwy 1 and the Duke Point ferry terminal. Heading north, Terminal Ave forks: the right fork becomes Stewart Ave Hwy 1 , leading to the Departure Bay ferry terminal, while the left fork becomes Hwy 19A Island Hwy and is the main up-island route. Downtown Information Centre ; www.
Bring a picnic and check out the birds hanging around the lagoon, take a short hike through the gnarly Garry oak forest or give the climbing wall your best shot. Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park ; www. Walks or hikes range from 1km strolls to a 7. Access is via a minute ferry , ; www. Overlooking downtown, the colorful Nanaimo District Museum ; www. There are regular temporary exhibitions to keep the line-up fresh.
A swanky new museum building in the city center was scheduled to open soon after our visit. This landmark fortified tower only fired occasional cannons to simmer down regional ruckuses. Wild Play Element Parks , ; www. For scuba fans, the coastline off Nanaimo offers some great dives and the folk at Ocean Explorers Diving , ; www.
Sleeping Painted Turtle Guesthouse , ; www. Hardwood floors and IKEAesque furnishings abound while facilities range from a large and welcoming kitchen to a laundry room and en-suite showers. You can book a wide range of local activities through the front desk. Buccaneer Inn , ; www. The neat and tidy approach is carried over into the maritime-themed rooms, many with kitchenettes. It has two lovely rooms, combining antique and contemporary chintzy flourishes.
Dorchester Hotel , ; www. Inn on Long Lake , ; www. The large rooms, each with a balcony, have plenty of amenities and some have kitchenettes. It has a sauna, a fitness center and lake-bound canoes to keep you occupied, along with free continental breakfast. The food is the main attraction, though. Drop by on Saturday and Sunday for live lunchtime music. The patio is a magnet on languid sunny days. The menu rests on the kind of wraps, burgers and sandwiches that are a cut above standard diner fare and there are some tempting small-plate options for those who want to snack or share.
The locally sourced ingredients mean ever-changing specials but the favorite on our visit was Pacific halibut with Dungeness crab potato salad. In late July, the four days of marine-themed shenanigans include a street fair, a parade and a giant fireworks extravaganza, but the main event remains the big race where hundreds of salty sea dogs jump into customized bath-sized crafts and embark on a grueling 58km course.
Speedboat engines are de rigueur for the minute sprint, with thousands of spectators lining the bay for the spectacular finish. A dip in the tub will never seem the same again. The menu is also recommended and is a cut above standard pub grub. In contrast, the Port Theatre ; www. Frequent West Coast Air , ; www. BUS Greyhound Canada ; www. Getting Around Downtown Nanaimo around the harbor is highly walkable, but after that the city spreads out and a car or strong bike legs are required.
Be aware that taxis are expensive here. Nanaimo Regional Transit ; www. Bus 2 goes to the Departure Bay ferry terminal.
No city buses run to Duke Point. For cabs, call AC Taxi Most visitors spend time pointing at the sky here in summer: a herd of goats lives on the roof of the main building. World Parrot Refuge ; www. This excellent educational facility preaches the mantra that parrots are not pets. Pick up your earplugs at reception and stroll among the enclosures, each alive with recovering and very noisy birds. It has an excellent walk-through display on west coast animals and their habitats.
Dedicated to treating sick or injured animals brought to its doors, the facility also has active rehabilitation programs for eagles and black bear. If you want to finish your basement, you have to accept the risk that your finishes might be ruined in the future. Plan to buy or sell land in Concord?
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For a quarter century, it remained in the grip of ultra-conservative Maurice Duplessis and his Union Nationale party, with support from the Catholic Church and various business interests. Advances included expanding the public sector, investing in public education and nationalizing the provincial hydroelectric companies. In , Canada became the first country in the world to pass a national multicultural act and establish a federal department of multiculturalism.
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It lasts less than an hour and kills both commanding generals. France takes it on the chin. Prospectors discover gold along the Fraser River in BC, spurring thousands of get-rich-quick dreamers to move north and start panning. Most remain poor. Queen Victoria celebrates with Canadian bacon for breakfast. However, she retains the right to keep her mug on the money and appoint a governor general. The ban was supposed to be lifted within a few years, but depleted cod stocks never rebounded.
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We fret that multiculturalism might be leading to a splintered society with pockets of solitudes. And we are indignant about having to honor treaties we signed long ago with Aboriginals who refuse to simply fade into the sunset.
We are more a nation of debaters than people of action. Canadians are like one small family living in a very big house in the suburbs. If something really irks, we can always retreat to another room until our anger dissipates. Peace at any cost is an integral part of our heritage and psyche, and we are lucky to have never experienced war on our home turf. Despite the reality that Canadians have fought in overseas conflicts for the better part of a century, we see ourselves as a nation of peacekeepers; it was former prime minister Lester B Pearson who received a Nobel Peace Prize in for settling the Suez Crisis, an action that led to his being lauded as the father of peacekeeping.
A favorite quip is that the only thing unifying Canada is a universal hatred of successful, corporate, American-leaning Toronto, although a recent documentary on the subject revealed that no-one could say exactly why. Perhaps just to unite us. We may not have the sense of history of the UK, or the bravado and self-assuredness of the Aussies, but we do have our own quiet style that is the key to the miracle that has kept this complex, open society from falling apart or crashing into warring tribal factions.
We have learned that flexibility, compromise, tolerance, dialogue, a sense of humor and being nice just might be the glue that keeps this unlikely country together. While the present is rosy, Canadians are nervous about a graying future; one in every seven Canadians is a senior over 65 , and the number of children under 14 years is at an all-time low. By there will no longer be enough new workers to replace retiring baby boomers, the fastest-growing demographic.
At the same time, many provinces have abolished mandatory retirement at What does a typical Canadian family look like? Mum and dad are raising 1. The gap between rich and poor in Canada is increasing and income growth for the working classes has slowed. Canadians are borrowing more, especially to buy homes that have reached record prices in British Columbia, Alberta and Ontario. Kids will attend postsecondary education in numbers unrivaled in any other country with female students vastly outnumbering males , creating the most highly educated population per capita in the world.
Inside an average Canadian home all the latest electronic gadgets are present along with a car or two in the garage. One in 50 Quebecers is a Tremblay. Nationally, twice as many Canadians live in common-law relationships as Americans. In Canada became the fourth country in the world to legalize same-sex marriage; so far same-sex divorce has not yet been sanctioned. Same-sex couples comprise only 0. But a federal bill to legalize possession of marijuana for personal use remains stalled. Leisure-loving Canadians work about three weeks fewer per year than Americans, and fewer than Australians, too.
During the July and August school break, many kids spend a week or two in camp learning outdoor skills, languages and sports. Canadians are known for winter sports like skiing and especially hockey, the national pastime, which is played by 1. But Canadians are much more likely to watch hockey than to play it. Crime remains higher in western Canada than in the east. Since the mids the government has steadily paid down the federal debt and now regularly posts budgetary surpluses.
The Canadian dollar is at a year high against the US buck, and unemployment rates are at a year low. While the economy is dominated by the service industry, Canada is unusual among developed nations in the importance of natural resources such as logging, mining, wheat and oil. Oil in particular is a major factor in the current economic climate. Balmy weather in lower British Columbia attracts winter-weary Canadians from further east.
In recent years the oil boom in northern Alberta has drawn workers from across the country, particularly Atlantic Canada, where it is almost a tradition for young people to leave their unemployment-plagued home provinces to find work in other parts of Canada see boxed text. After all, it was the first country in the world to establish a federal department of multiculturalism.
Chinese immigrants were brought to the west to build the transcontinental railway in the s, and by the time of the most recent census , the country had become home to different ethnic groups speaking languages. Canada has one of the highest rates of immigration per capita in the world and accepts large numbers of refugees.
With a growth rate of only 1. These 1. Among the Aboriginal population the average age is As in other nations such as Australia, the Aboriginal suicide rate, which is six times higher than for the rest of the population, is an alarming indicator of social crisis. But the colonists saw treaties as a trade of land for compensation.
More than 50 treaties were signed, first with the British and then the Canadian governments. Among those who did, many did not receive the land, money, food, medicine or housing they were promised.
Since the s Aboriginal people have made land claims against the federal and provincial governments, an issue that gained urgency as plans were made to develop northern resources.
Where no treaties were signed, land claims now involve roughly half the total area of Canada. Resolution of land claims is complicated, as two levels of government are involved with all the ensuing debates surrounding land ownership and how treaties should be interpreted. Some cases remain unresolved after half a century and frustration has mounted. A blockade by the Haida of British Columbia against logging an old-growth forest finally resolved a year land claims battle.
There have been armed standoffs between Aboriginals and police like that at an Ontario reserve called Camp Ipperwash in , where police shot and killed Chippewa protestor Anthony Dudley George. It was the first modern-day land-claim settlement. Settling land claims is an important step for Aboriginals to become stewards of their own future. Since the creation of Nunavut there has been widespread mineral exploration that gives a territory the potential for much-needed revenue.
Aboriginal land claims continue to capture the front page of Canadian newspapers. For the latest in aboriginal news, visit www. Dotted throughout are the remaining areas of Allophones, representing languages from Icelandic to Urdu.
Immigration patterns vary in different regions of the country. BC has a long history of welcoming Japanese, Chinese and South Asian immigrants, and more recently large numbers of people from Eastern Europe and Iran. Living conditions on reserves are often far below the rest of the country. In March Statistics Canada projected that the number of visible minorities in Canada will double by , and that by the majority of the populations of Toronto and Vancouver would be comprised of visible minorities.
Equally important, the cultural revival and sense of pride that an outside interest in aboriginal culture has generated gives young people a purpose to learn about their heritage. The further north in Canada you head, the more your travel dollars benefit Aboriginals. Increasingly, Aboriginals are opening their lives to visitors. Dine on maktaaq, smoked whitefish and caribou stew in the Tuktoyaktuk home of a traditional hunter or try a homestay with an Iqaluit family.
Many Canadians feel the system is too lenient on visitors who arrive in Canada and declare themselves refugees, which grants them a government-subsidized existence while they await a hearing on their status, which can take months or sometimes even years.
Some refugees disappear into the system or illegally skip to the USA. International people-smuggling rackets often target Canada because the coastline is vast and penalties are less severe than in the USA.
The racketeers coach their human cargo on how to declare refugee status, but often their ultimate destination is the USA, a quick but illegal trip over the border. Return to beginning of chapter MEDIA Although often overshadowed by US airwaves and publications, Canada has a healthy media sector, with television and radio stations in both English and French. There is a free press with very little censorship of editorial content apart from that which might discourage advertising or attract libel suits, both simmering issues.
Most Canadian newspapers are owned by large chains, which have been known to gobble up city-based alternative weeklies that might threaten competition. In Canada, two-thirds of Muslims actively practice their faith, while only one-fifth of Christians regularly attend religious services. Teeth are optional. Until very recently lacrosse was in danger of disappearing from the public consciousness, but the sport seems to be experiencing a renaissance with a new pro league.
As such, the city is digging up every second road and making plans to hustle its street people off to Seattle when the world visits in February of that year. Tickets are distributed by lottery, and then you have to take whatever event they give you. Holy biathlon, Batman! Unless you know someone. With so many different cultures settling in Canada in the past generation, these sports are quickly emerging as alternatives to hockey for new communities.
The origins of so many players on Canadian national and Olympic teams give a picture of the diversity and the challenges facing the country as it searches for its identity in the 21st century. Finally, lest we forget curling, that unique brand of frozen shuffleboard that captivates large segments of the Canadian population each winter.
A Canadian sport that actually eschews fighting, curling requires players to slide polished granite stones to a painted target at the other end of a long sheet of ice. Closest to the center wins a point in this sport that originated in Scotland. Players use a broom to affect how much curl a stone will get. Today, literature is the creative endeavor by which Canada has most effectively defined and distinguished itself, and revealed its multicultural diversity of voices. And Canadian readers are darn proud of them.
The festival website www. Translation is considered an art in Canada. The finest French-Canadian literature can be read in English. Corner Gas and Little Mosque on the Prairie, the top two Canadian sitcoms, are both set in small-town Saskatchewan although only the former is filmed there.
Music Canadian fans are as loyal and adventurous as they come. Major galleries exhibit the strengths of their permanent collections and host traveling exhibitions from home and abroad. Travelers taking the back roads will discover plenty of local creativity, too. In the midth century, Paul Kane and Cornelius Krieghoff both painted aboriginal subjects; works by them can be seen at the Royal Ontario Museum and the National Gallery. Since the midth century there has been strong appreciation of and a market for aboriginal art, in particular Inuit sculpture.
Check out www. By the s, professional theaters existed in most cities, but Canadian talent remained under-utilized. The increasingly adventurous Canadian Opera Company moved to new Toronto digs in Traditions brought to Canada by early settlers Scots, French etc and dance styles of more recent immigrant groups eg Ukrainian, Afro-Caribbean and Indian , are represented by amateur and professional ensembles, many of whom perform during cultural festivals.
Landscape-altering architecture for the Winter Olympics in Vancouver created much local controversy, including protests about the environmental footprint and the loss of low-income housing downtown. But in recent years, the country that used to treat food as a way of fueling up for a hard winter of polar bear wrestling has undergone a two-course culinary renaissance.
For travelers, this means that eating and drinking in Canada can now be a highlight of a visit here, rather than a disappointing pit-stop necessity. With the Irish bringing potatoes to the table, the Germans rolling in with smoked sausages and the Chinese dropping by with dim sums, Canada has always been a finger-licking smorgasbord of food styles, making it the original home of fusion cooking.
This approach is still the cornerstone of dining here today: contemporary restaurants often add a dash of Japanese influence to their French cuisine or a pinch of East Indian Flair to their west coast seafood menu. But while tweaking traditional recipes is common in Canada, some dishes continue to define specific regions. These provincial soul foods directly reflect available local ingredients and the diverse influences of their cooks. Next door, Nova Scotia visitors should save their appetites for butter-soft Digby scallops and rustic Lunenberg sausage, while the favored food of nearby Newfoundland and Labrador is cod: cod cheeks, cod tongues and cod-and-potato-blended fishcakes.
Head next door to Saskatchewan for dessert, though. Backcountry foraging is also a big tradition in Canada: BC is a popular spot for mushroom pickers, New Brunswick is ideal for fiddleheads and almost everywhere else offers some kind of wild-growing seasonal fruit, including blackberries or blueberries. Here you should hunt around for the dark, chocolaty or downright earthy tastes of beer from local producers such as Storm, Phillips, Dead Frog or Russell Brewing.
If you time your visit well, you might catch a regional wine festival, enabling you to sample a few unfamiliar tipples as you rub shoulders with bleary-eyed local imbibers. Wine lovers are spoilt for choice when it comes to festivals. There are also many family-oriented, midpriced eateries for those traveling with kids, and bars are usually just as interested in serving food as they are beer.
While there are many variations, breakfast spots often open from 8am to 11am, lunch is usually offered between am and pm on weekdays and dinner is frequently on the menu from 5pm to pm daily.
Midrange and family restaurants usually stay open all day. Closing times vary greatly and often depend on how busy the restaurant is on the day: hours are especially liquid in larger, tourist-friendly towns. Service is generally excellent at Canadian restaurants and bars. Solo travelers are welcomed at most eateries, although family-oriented restaurants may baulk at sacrificing a large table to a lone nosher. See opposite for information on tipping. Expect similar responses in the Maritimes and on the prairies, where the carnivorous approach is a way of life.
Not surprisingly, vegans can expect an even rougher ride. The handy VegeDining website www. Check locations in BC www. Kids menus often rely heavily on breaded chicken and brightly colored mini pizzas.
As an alternative, ask for a half-order of something more nutritious from the adult menu. Servers often work extra hard to keep kids happy, so consider adding a few dollars to your tip to reward exemplary service in the face of adversity. On weekends, many restaurants serve brunch from as early as 8am, sometimes until as late as 4pm. BC and Ontario are the main regional producers.
Table service is common in most pubs, although you can still order at the bar. A small number of areas still allow separate smoking rooms and patio smoking but this is also being slowly stubbed out. Twinkle-eyed Bernard leads gumbooted groups across the muddy beach at Whiffen Spit, extolling enthusiastically on the culinary properties of the many seaweed varieties growing in the ocean garden around her.
Running for a couple of hours, the Outer Coast Seaweeds tours , ; www. Call ahead for reservations. Get behind the cuisine of French Canada by getting to know the language. For pronunciation guidelines, Click here. Diamonds, oil, gold and timber? Later generations, moving westward, found fertile soil in the prairies and gold in the Klondike. Much of this water fills the dips and dents of the massive Canadian Shield, a vast horseshoe-shaped region of Precambrian rock chiseled and gouged by glaciers and erosion over hundreds of millions of years.
In addition to Aboriginals, many of those living here are miners and loggers who exploit the enormous wealth of natural treasures, including nickel, copper, silver, gold and diamonds. Ottawa is the second-chilliest national capital, after Ulan Bator, Mongolia. In the Pacific region, coastal British Columbia has the most temperate climate, but is often drenched by rains.
Along with Alberta, the Yukon is part of the Cordillera region, which is also defined by other mountain ranges, most famously the Canadian Rockies. Dinosaur Provincial Park Alberta, ; Click here A fossil site with bones from 35 species of dinosaurs, some 75 million years old.
Gros Morne National Park Newfoundland, ; Click here Superb mosaic of coastal lowland, alpine plateau, fjords, glacial valleys, sheer cliffs, waterfalls and pristine lakes. Waterton Lakes National Park Alberta, ; Click here An exceptional variety of plants and mammals in prairies and forests, and alpine and glacial features.
That baby measured 7. Scientists say every to years the region gets hit by a major quake, ie one measuring 8. The last one occurred in , which means Canada is due for another spanking, oh, any day now?
Whales, polar bear and the goofy, twig-eating moose are wildlife-watching favorites. They live in forests throughout the country and are most active between dusk and dawn. If you see the legendary fur-ball, submit a report to the Sasquatch Research Initiative www. This curious, slow-moving animal is covered in up to 30, quills, which form a formidable defense mechanism. When under threat, the porcupine vigorously lashes its tail, thereby dislodging loose quills as if throwing them.
It feeds mainly on bark and tree buds, and used to be a staple of the Aboriginal diet. The quills are sometimes used in aboriginal decorative work. Its bigger relative, the caribou, is unusual in that both males and females sport enormous antlers.
Barren-ground caribou, which feed on lichen and spend most of the year on the tundra from Baffin Island to Alaska, are the most common. Still more humungous is the moose, whose skinny, ballerina-like legs support a hulking body with a distinctive shovel-like snout. Males grow a spectacular rack of antlers every summer, only to discard it in November.
Newfoundland has grown a huge moose population since they were first introduced there in the early s Click here. Neither moose nor elk are generally aggressive, and they will often generously pose for photographs. During mating season September , the males can become belligerent, so stay in your car. The huge, heavy-shouldered, shaggy bison buffalo that once roamed the prairies in vast herds now exists only in parks.
It is said that there were once as many as 70 million bison in North America. Their herds would often take days to pass by a single point. Keep your distance, though; for more, see the boxed text below.
About half a million of these furry critters patrol the forests and bushland just about everywhere except Prince Edward Island, southern Alberta and southern Saskatchewan. But it never hurts to be prepared, as the old boy scout saying goes. The endangered grizzly bear and the smaller black bear both hang out in Canada, mostly in the Canadian Rockies. Just to confuse you, black bear are sometimes brown and some grizzlies are almost black. The way to tell them apart is to look for certain distinguishing characteristics: the grizzly has a dish-shaped face, small and rounded ears and a prominent shoulder hump.
Both grizzlies and black bear are intelligent opportunists who quickly learn that humans come equipped with tasty packages of food. Never feed these majestic animals.
Always use bear-proof bins provided at campgrounds to store your food properly, and keep your campground tidy by picking up all scraps. Bear basically only attack if their cubs are around or if they feel surprised or threatened. Your best defenses against surprising a bear are to remain alert, avoid hiking at night when bear feed and be careful traveling in places where visibility is obscured.
If the bear sees you, slowly back out of its path, avoid eye contact, speak softly and wave your hands above your head slowly.
Never turn your back to the bear and never kneel down. If a bear charges, do not run or scream which may frighten the bear and make it more aggressive , because the bear may only be charging as a bluff. Drop to the ground, crouch face down in a ball and play dead, covering the back of your neck with your hands and your chest and stomach with your knees. As we said before, bear attacks are really quite rare. Give the bear, and other animals, the respect they deserve and the space they need.
If you see one on the side of the road, consider not stopping. If you do decide to pull over, move on after a few minutes.
If simple steps are taken to minimize human encounters, it will help ensure future generations of visitors have the chance to see wildlife that is still truly wild. It stands up to a fearsome 3m tall and has a distinctive hump between its shoulders. Grizzlies are solitary animals with no natural enemies except humans. Although they enjoy an occasional snack of elk, moose or caribou, they usually fill their bellies with berries and other vegetation.
Pretty much the only place to observe them is from late September to early November in Churchill, Manitoba, one of their major maternity denning grounds. For more information about these fascinating creatures, Click here.
Another formidable predator is the wolf, which can be every bit as fierce and cunning as is portrayed in fairy tales, although it rarely attack humans.
Belugas are the smallest, typically measuring no more than 4. They are chatty fellows who squeak, groan and peep while traveling in closely knit family pods. Each one chows down about 40 tons of krill per day.
Minkes can grow to 10m and are likely to approach boats, delighting passengers with acrobatics as they, too, hurl themselves out of the water a bit more easily than the lumbering humpback. Everyone loves these cute little guys, a sort of waddling penguin-meets-parrot cross, with black-and-white feathers and an orange beak. They hang out in the Atlantic provinces, especially Newfoundland. The true ruler of the sky, though, is the bald eagle, whose wingspan can reach more than 2m.
It was Canadian banker Charles Broley who first connected the dots between DDT and the plummeting population of these regal birds. That was in the late s, and things have been looking way up since then. Trees cover nearly half of the country, providing living space to roughly two-thirds of the estimated , species of plants, animals and micro-organisms living in Canada. Stretching from coast to coast and from the US border to the Arctic tree line, they are highly diversified and have adapted to the soil, climate and weather conditions.
Further south, tundra transitions to taiga, better known as boreal forest, named after Boreas, the Greek god of the north wind. Cold-tolerant conifers such as pine, fir and spruce thrive in this harsh climate of long winters and short but warm summers.
Ontario hosts the parkland zone, which marks the transition between the eastern forests and the prairies. Trembling aspen is the dominant tree. Manitoba, Saskatchewan and Alberta are best known for their flat prairie grasslands, now mostly covered in cultivated grains. Short, mixed and tall grasses once blanketed this region but, except for a few protected pockets, these are a thing of the past.
BC has the most diverse vegetation in the country. The Rocky Mountain forests consist of sub-alpine species such as Engelmann spruce, alpine fir and larches, with lodgepole pine and aspen at higher elevations. In the rainforest-like climate of the Pacific coast, the trees soar skyward.
There are ancient, gigantic western red cedar, Douglas fir, western hemlock and Sitka spruce species.
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